Another Day in Paradise

Yesterday I worked on two pastels. Both of them I drew in the house from photos. I had to do a lot of redrawing on the second, because the photo had messed up the perspective. I am not sure if this is cheating or not, but it does allow me to get to my color quicker. I was finished with the first one when the woman of the house came out and offered me coffee. 

I always say yes, because I don’t want to be rude. Her house had several nice paintings and an excellent drawing of her daughter that I believe was done by a street artist sometime in the far back past. I was able to have a bit of a conversation with her and I think that I understood most of what she was saying. No one is very critical, they just look confused. It is a look I share. Luckily I have two friends who will correct me. She gave me an amoretti. This is certainly mis-spelled. They are little almond cookies that are crisp on the outside and chewy on the inside. If you have had them in the States, then they are only crisp. Without a mold retardant it is not possible to export them without spoilage. Thus an amoretti in the U.S. will always be a disappointment. This was the fun fact of yesterday from a guy I met who used to export food from Italy. He is visiting the family home in Gagliano across the valley. He was from Michigan. I helped me get wi-fi on his phone and he explained the amoretti conundrum. 

Last night Italy played Ireland in the European Cup. Soccer, of course. Italy lost by 1 point that Ireland scored with about 5 minutes to go. All the men on the Italian team are quite handsome and all but one of the Irish men looked like thugs. Would I feel different if I was in Ireland? The game must have been played somewhere in the UK, because the crowd seemed completely Irish. (imagine the Quiddich World Cup) Many people were dressed as leprechauns. This is never a good look, but to be fair, there were two Italians who appeared to be dressed as Smurfs. It was fun to watch in the piazza on the big screen, although many more people seem to be able to watch in their homes. This picture is the hair of the young man who wants me to paint his portrait. A true fan, he also had one of those airhorns, but no occasion to blow it.

We were awoken by a loud boom this morning. Jim went to the terrace to see what was up. He reported that the wind was howling and it was pouring rain. Both the howling and the rain lasted a few seconds. I had been up at 4:30 and it was perfectly clear. After what seemed like a giant front rolled by with the wind and rain…nothing changed. The day has continued to be so unstable I don’t dare go out painting. Maybe if i had a car, but not on foot.

I have spent the morning working on a portrait of our dear friend who died in January 2016. I want it to be perfect and that is always a problem. The other portrait I have finished is of a kid who didn’t like the one I did last year or two years ago. I can’t remember any more. Another boy that I promised a portrait to caught up with me last night so already I am in the hole on portrait production. Mostly I would like to take a nap. 

Now it is time for Pranza and then a guilt free nap!

Fun with Moose and Domi!

Moose and Domi left this morning at 6:00. We did not get up to say good- by. I cannot express in mere words how happy we were to see them. It had been too long. 

Moose helped us get through the worst year of our life. Only in Italy visiting her family did we see a way we could get through the pain of losing Annie and begin to build a life, that although a distant second choice, we could sustain. Italy was the first place we smiled again. On our second trip to her family with Jessie she drove us to Abruzzo to look at houses. She and Jessie were with us on the first day we saw our house in beautiful Castelvecchio. The people of this town have helped me rebuild my destroyed life. 

La gente di Castelvecchio sono molto gentili. I have just found out that the motto of Abruzzo is Strong & Gentle. All the people we have met exemplify this motto. 

Grazie mille Flami and Domi for coming to see us and for making this dream real.

At Vittorito in front of the largest wine barrel in the world

Flami at Gole San Vennanzia

New artwork at Gole San Vennanzia

Figs at Gole San Vennanzia

Jeneaneat Gole San Vennanzia

Jimat Gole San Vennanzia

Flami at Gole San Vennanzia

Domi at Gole San Vennanzia

New earthquake work in Castel di Ieri. Many of our favorite spots to paint are no longer assessable. 

The usual beautiful view from the top of the Centro Storica Castelvecchio. 

One of the Happiest Days of my Life!

Last evening after the day of rain the mountains were shrouded in low hanging clouds. 

The first time I got up today the mountains were completely invisible in all directions. We were living inside a grey bubble.  The second time I got up the sky was blue above, but clouds still split the mountains. 

Work continues on the Centro Storico. A huge pile of rebar sat atop a little, but mighty thing that carries work supplies up and rubble down. I do not know what to call it, but here is a picture!

The excitement of the day so far is the new posters hanging around town. There is a bus trip to the sea on July 10, times the Egyptian ruins are open in Castel di Irie (you didn’t even know there were Egyptian ruins did you?) I have only seen them from behind the fence because they have not been open) and information on the religious and secular activities for the June 24, Festa San Giovanni: the patron saint of Castelvecchio. Also coming this weekend “The Vespa Festa” and a wedding!

But the huge excitement, making this one of the happiest days of my life, was the arrival of Moose and Domi. Moose, Flami, was our foreign exchange student 10 years ago and the reason we have a house in Italy today. We were all so very happy to see each other.

June 19 What a Day!

Off to a late start again, we were scolded at the piazza for being up so late and not doing any work. Ah well, the problems of knowing a little Italian. My usual answer this week: “Domani”. 

The usual crowd.

Not working.

 After two coffees at the internet cafe we took a little walk scouting new places to paint. With the church bell tower uncovered there are many new possibilities. We spent a while looking for the best view and found a couple.

We do not know what this memorial is about. We haven't been up here in a couple of years, but it is beautiful.

I had seen pictures from this spot, but I did not know where it was. Today we discovered it. I started the drawing at home and I will paint here tomorrow morning.

 This is a tiny church that has been restored by the citizens with a new walkway that is fit for more than goats. I have always wanted to paint it, but was afraid I would slip to the road below. Now I can stand inside the railing and not worry. I also started a drawing of this at home that I can paint on location.

It is Sunday and so it is motorcycle day.

This is a picture of our very own “Flatiron Building” in the middle of the street. I will NOT be able to paint here.

When we got home Bjarne and Bella were just walking out the door to go to his garden. He has done an impressive job. We had some of his new potatoes for dinner last night! Molto Bueno!

It rained until about 5:30 when we ventured out to see our friends Ermilinda and Vittorio and their son Jonathan. It was our first unannounced social call. After drinking some homemade liquor, Vittorio took us in his car to see his 13 chickens and small guard dog. We continued on some backroads until we turned toward the piazza where I am drinking white wine at the Commune's internet cafe. What a sweet life it is!

June 17, Further Adventures and June 18 Oggi Perfecto!

Our new internet caffe is in the piazza! The Commune wi-fi is working this year and Bar Komodo and Bar al Kaffe also have internet. I called my mom and tried to call Jessie while enjoying some sparkling white wine on tap (1E20). Also on tap: beer, and sadly, Coke. 

See me?

That is a huge change from when we first came to Italy 8 years ago. At that time you never saw coke. When I started writing this blog, a coke was a rare and amazing thing. Now it is endemic. 

After a short conversation to let my mom know we had arrived safely, we went walking around in the historical center to see what was new on the earthquake repair front. There is enormous new scaffolding and a gigantic crane looming over some of my favorite places to paint. 

The beautiful piazza that was completed about 5 years ago now houses building supplies and demolition detritus. Just getting the building materials into the Centro Storica is a monumental task as is removing the ruble. I believe that Italian’s think in centuries, not decades,  when it comes to restoration. Just the construction of the scaffolding is a work of elegant engineering. 

 This house was finished by Danes just before the earth quake. Now their beautiful courtyard is a staging area. They have never been here since the earthquake.

All the bricks come up and then debris goes down the yellow shoot.

The last time I painted just beyond the wood fence, I was in terror lest something fall on my head. Now, I am not tempted to trespass! 

More good news today!! Moose and her sister arrive at our house on Monday! If it weren’t for Moose, we would have never had a house in Italy. 

And finally, a delicious dinner made by Jim, in our fabulous home in Italy.

June 18

We were too late for first breakfast again and we had to make due with second breakfast. It is very hard to fall asleep at night and way to easy to sleep in the day. Although I think I remember things about here, I am still surprised. The traffic on the piazza is a constant source of entertainment and it is amazing that dead bodies are not littering the streets. I assume I will get over my gasps of horror at what seems to be impending doom. The coffee is just incredible. How can it be so much better? You don’t get very much, but the taste makes up for the lack of volume. 

This coming weekend is the giant VESPA RADUNO INTERNAZIONALE. I am unclear how this is all associated with San Francesco, but his relic is on the poster and in the name of the association. I am thinking it may be a little bit like the Karate for Christ I saw advertised at a church in the U.S.A. once. Would San Francesco drive a gas guzzling car? Would he ride a loud, obnoxious motorcycle dressed like a storm trooper? No, he would not. He would drive a VESPA. 

We took a little walk around this morning looking for new places to paint and things that have changed. The beautiful bell flowers are blooming on the stone walls. Last year we got here to late for them. 

The huge crane looming over CVS is new. 

The use of google for translations still proves to be a problem whether it is on a t-shirt or a car. 

Tractors gather at the fountain

Now we are waiting to go to our neighbors house for lunch at 1pm. We are excited. I hope they like the presents we brought them and I hope we get enough to eat!

Yes, we did get enough to eat. Risotta with saffron gathered by Salvatore, lemon chicken, salad from Salvatore's garden, little tomatoes with a delicious dressing, small bowls of olives, blood sausage, and fritato, cantaloupe so juicy it squirted me, gelato, candy, confetti, cookies...two kinds, lemoncello, nocello, coffee and then home for a two hour nap. Wow!! The trip would be worth it for lunch with the neighbors!

June 17, 2016 Return to Italy!!

Yes!! We are back and we are so happy to be here.  My mouth hurts from smiling and we have spoken to so many people who all seem glad to see us.

Our trip went really well considering all the modes of transportation. Car, bus, bus, airplane, bus, bus, and car. It had a certain symmetry. We arrived here about 8pm last night and immediately went for pizza. Luckily there is a new little pizza place downtown that is open till 9pm. It was delicious! The best pizza we have had in 10 months.

This morning was market day. The market was very small, but we still managed to buy food and plants from 5 vendors.

 Although small, the delicious smells and colors were still the same.

And of course we bought almost more than we could carry. Three flowers, basil plant, pizza, chicken, and it is apricot season!! We bought way more than we could eat and it was hard to resist buying even more.

Market Swag

I am so excited that I have a distressing need to use lots of !!!! Anyone that got an email from me today will see!!!

 We got up too late for first breakfast so we went straight to second breakfast. Awesome!!

 While waiting for the small shopkeeper, who had left her store wide open and gone to get a caffe, I ducked into the convento for a look. Che bella! Those of you that see me daily know that I was very anxious about coming to Italy, as always, but now I am so happy to be here. The light and heat are so intense! I had forgotten about being always dying of thirst and the need to wear sunglasses. I have had several complex conversations in Italian today, but luckily we all talk "facebook" and "instagram". Oh brave new (old?) world.