July 8, 2017, Abby Road or What Another Long, Strange, Trip it’s Been

July 8, 2017, Abby Road or What Another Long, Strange, Trip it’s Been

It was a most interesting and amazing day, but it did prove once again that it is better just to find and not seek. Nothing turned out like we thought it would, but it was better or at least equally great. We set off for L’Aquila with our friend and the mighty dog Fred. We spent a long time looking for an art supply store that was no where near where I thought it was. Then instead of going to the museum in L’Aquila we drove way back out this way and went to an amazing Abby in Bominaco somewhere in Abruzzo. It was a long and winding road that led to some dead ends and impassible roads along the way. We were happy in the same way that Fred seems to be happy although he has not idea where he is or what is going on. 

At last a sign.

As is often the case there was a wedding in the Romanesque Church of Santo Maria Assunta (12th Century), but we were able to get in the small church of San Pelligrino. It was founded by Charlemagne but rebuilt in 1263. 

Roman columns

As is also often the case we had to call up a woman to come and open the church for us. Then we had to put 2E in to turn on the lights, but it was well worth it. The entire place is painted floor to ceiling with frescos and carvings. 

I sort of like my photos before the lights were turned on, but it was much easier to appreciate the interior with the lights. I did not read the sign that said no pictures until we were on the way out and I am very grateful that I did not. 

Above the horse and rider are the calendar months including the zodiac signs and the saints’ days and other holy days celebrated in that church. 

Here is a better shot of the calendar with the prophets above it.

This is the view looking back toward the front door. The 30 foot high guy on the left is San Cristofer. 

I really liked the moorish designs on the vaulted ceiling and all the strange, to my eye, midivil characters doing midivilish things like carrying a box with half a guy in it. 

Here are some Danes that we know who also were in the church. Just to the left of San Christofer’s knees is a saint that looked like “Thing” in the Adams Family. He had hair down below his knees. More to the left are frescos depicting the life of Jesus. 

Jim, Marzia, and the church lady looking toward the front of the church. 

This is the big church of Santo Maria Assunta. It is really big and, compared to the little one, quite austere. The outside and the inside are not as ornamented, but there were some interesting things I found by looking closely. 

Picture of Fred carved into the wall.

The right hand of God. 

This is a shot of the long side of the church and the cute little house along side it. 

Here, I am on the porch of the little house and am trying to give you an idea of how long the church is. 

It was hot enough to cook a pizza on the pavement, but still there were some bell flowers growing in a shady spot on the church. 

We were lucky that the woman let us into the big church after the wedding. She had missed her lunch, but still took the time to give us a minute. 

This church is very white with only a few frescos partially uncovered on the side walls. 

As well as two amazing churches we also had an amazing lunch of homemade pasta. I had pasta made with saffron….which is harvested in our region and Jim had carbonara. There was a another family dining and the man was from California about 30 miles from where Jim grew up. He is retired and he and his family have moved full time to Italy. ( to do that as Americans two people have to have an income of $6000 a month and I do not know how more it is if there are four) They had a small, white, version of the dogs that live in the Montpelier pet store. 

 It was around 40c today so since returning home we have been hiding in the house waiting for dark to go interneting in the piazza. We learned an Italian saying today:  Eat like a prince at breakfast, like a king at noon and like a peasant in the evening. This is our problem. We have been eating like kings every meal all day. 

Garlic day at the Market, July 7, 2017

Garlic day at the Market

Just three of the vendors selling garlic today. This one also has the long, skinny red onions. 

The usual price is about 6E a strand

There was also a good t-shirt at the market. I do not know what it means, but usually I don't.

Here are the two portraits I did yesterday and today. And here I am hard at work.

Last night we went on a walk after dinner. Any walk can be a "passeggiare", but it usually refers to a wlka after dinner. Hre we are with Marzia and Fred.

I am hanging my oils out on the terrace to dry, along with the laundry. It works well as it is so hot and dry outside. I discovered I did not bring as much pastel paper as I meant to, so I will be doing crappy oils most of the summer. But that is ok, because, the only bad painting is one you don't learn from. I love how my words come back to bite me!

July 6, 2017

Here is my pastel from this morning. I had a great time in a new painting spot. Any time I am not doing oils is a good time.

 Our friends from America were here for one day and then back to their other house in Italy. We had dinner with them at a place we had never been up in Secinaro which is higher than here in the mountains. It is like having dinner at someone's home. He went out a picked our salad from the garden. The pasta was homemade and we sat outside under the moon. There was even the family dog begging at some regular's table. 

The view was as good as the food. 

View from Secinaro

July 5, 2017 Walk to Castel di Ieri

July 5, 2017 Walk to Castel di Ieri

This morning we bravely set out for Castel di Ieri. We did not take our painting stuff. It was strictly recognizance. Without my easel, etc. it was an easy and fun walk. It is a back road and no cars, motorcycles, horses or other modes of transport passed us. 

Jim on the way up. CdI is much more steep that CVS

The Torre where signal fires could be lit to alert the valley to invasion. 

I hope you can see how big this crane is. 

Another shot of the crane and work being done.

I had never seen this part of CdI before today. 

Blend of old and really old. 

This is one of the totally renovated areas after earthquake reconstruction.

This little room looked like it was set up to be a bar. Maybe it is where the workers eat lunch. 

More restoration

This is the spring at Castel di Ieri. In the back under the medal roofs are the areas to wash your clothes. We found out that CVS got running water in 1970 so it is in modern times that people went down to the fountain to do the wash.

4th of July — but not here

4th of July — but not here

It has been a lovely 4th of July. The weather is heating up, but is not above average for this season. 

Today was market day. It is so exciting to have something to spend money on:  especially delicious fruit. We made a material purchase today of some binoculars. Now we can see every detail in the valley. It really is pretty exciting and every year we have been saying we would bring some from the States. 

After market I went out to work on an oil painting. The composition turned out just as planned, but It was such a terrible idea. That does not usually happen to me. After that I took a nap. I just could not keep my eyes open. Then we ate lunch and then I took another nap. It is lucky I roamed all over this valley before I got so tired and prefer to only sleep. It could be that working in oils is making me feel this way! 

The truly big excitement of the day was getting my haircut! Yes, it is the annual cultural experience of being in the hair salon and listening to people talk. I do not usually see more than one or two people when I am at Nu-leaf in Montpelier, but here, because my haircut does not start until 1.5 hours after its scheduled time I see a lot of people. Mostly they are old (takes one to know one) and they want their hair to look super young. Ok I was tempted to get my haircut like my friend Gino: shaved up the sides and long on top, but I recognize that there are some things one should just appreciate and not actually emulate. And it was amazing how young their hair did look. Women here have the most processed hair I have ever seen. I believe the style this year is more wind blown and slightly longer than in the past. Raphella seemed to be sad when I said that I wanted my hair short. It is also possible I said something offensive. So far I have thanked my neighbor for the strawberries when he gave us beans and told someone else that I would be right back when I meant that I had been painting up above in the old town. I kind of wish that I never figured out these mistakes. 

Before

during

Now I have a great haircut and it is not so heavy and hot. (only 20E and no tipping!!) Getting my haircut is one of the times I appreciate being so near sighted: I do not have to stare at myself in the mirror the entire time. This woman cuts hair so fast it is like being swarmed by a host of humming birds. I do wish I had protective eye wear, but I emerged unscathed. I think she might make more money than any other business in town. 

After

Tonight our fabulous neighbors are coming for dinner. Jim figured out a way to make pulled pork and it is delicious. 

My Italian best friend. Notice how we have cleaned our plates. 

July 3, 2017 Perfect Days Continue

July 3, 2017 Perfect Days Continue

My start from yesterday. 

I do not believe the weather has ever been so pleasant as these last few days. I don’t think I have sweat a single drop. The air is crisp and It is below 30c. There are big clouds, but the humidity is low. Because of this great weather I have not returned to my spot in the convento. I will save that for the inevitable return of hot weather.


Today I finished three pastels that have been started on different days and times. I found some pretty great pastels that I did and left here last year. Probably I thought they would look nice in a show this summer. 

Finished!

Finished

This afternoon I continued my painting on the edge of the earthquake repair zone. I started it on Sunday and it was a lovely, peaceful place to paint. Not so today. The men were sand blasting the old stucco off the walls to take it down to the stone. It is so interesting how fashion comes and goes. First the walls were stone, then they were covered with stucco to “update” the stones. 

A fine example of original, possibly, Roman stones covered with stucco.

Now the stones are uncovered for the modern look of today. It is beautiful, because you can see how the houses were made. We are not willing to do the work to reveal the stone walls and the bricks in our vaulted ceiling. 

Finished (probably)

I did not see the guys when I arrived at my spot, but I could hear them working away. Suddenly I realized that the place I was standing seemed to be filling up with dust. It seemed like a good idea to leave. A big machine was blocking my path and the hook was hanging down from the 100 foot high crane. The men were not that pleased to see me and they enjoyed laughing at my hat. I will not return to that spot unless it is a Sunday! Luckily I was basically finished except for some lines that required a straight edge. 

Our Danish friends are away visiting grandchildren and we are in charge of watering the garden and the house plants. This is a job we are good at. 

Jim watering.

Nice view of Castelvecchio from the garden.

We are also in charge of making sure the internet works on our friend’s terrace while they are out of town. I am happy to say the plants and the internet are all fine. It is amazing how much one can get done if there is no internet or TV at their house. It is also hard to remember how to amuse myself all day when I can’t just check a few things on line. Hence three pastels and one watercolor and one present framed for my friend’s visit to the newest grandchild finished today. 

Jim drawing a picture of our house.

My basil and rosemary garden is looking pretty good. I also got some flowers that I do not know the name of , but I will be sad to leave them. 

Things are moving forward on the house in Barre. We may be moving when we get home. 

July 1 A Perfect day in Paradise

July 1

A Perfect day in Paradise

Today dawned cool after rain in the night.   Low lying clouds hung on the mountains revealing the contours of previously unnoticed foothills. 

After first and second breakfast we were out on the hunt for the 4th Annual Campionato Regionale di Mietitura a Mano. After last year’s search for the competition in the sweltering sun, this year we were confident we knew where to go. Luckily it was cool and cloudy because we did not know where to go and took the “long” way to get there. Sadly no food was promised on the flyer, but in fact there was food and everyone was eating bowls of beans cooked in tomato sauce, rosemary and carrots. 

Jim and I were urged to get bowls, but we protested that we had already eaten. The man pressuring us said that he had already eaten too and what was my point. So I got a bowl, but Jim continued to resist. My bowl was not full enough, so our friend added a big ladle of beans to it. Then he served Jim a bowl of beans. There was also homemade bread from the local Solina wheat, prusutto that men were taking turns finely slicing, and what would the morning be with out wine? 

sickle and finger protecters

This is how you wear your sickle when you are not using it: from a metal hook on your belt.
It is best not to sit down.

There was music

What we didn’t know is that a decision had been made not to do the harvesting by hand competition today, because the wheat was too wet…so there was no reason not to go ahead and eat and drink. No one’s fingers would be at risk. Finally as more and more people drifted away (the food was consumed) I asked it the competition would start soon. No it will not start until next Sunday. So we drifted away as well. I am hoping that there will be more food next Sunday. (this is now confirmed: there will be food) 

And dancing

and wheat

Not too long after that it was time for second lunch. We have been enjoying bruschetta with chopped up fresh tomatoes, garlic, onions, olive oil, balsamic, and basil along with slices of a cheese sort of like Jalsburg and watermelon for desert. 

The clouds lifted after our nap revealing a perfect day. We headed up to a new painting spot and things went very well. I have quite a few things started so I have to get down to the business of finishing them. 

Today's start. 

In my spare time I am churning out the watercolor portraits. I was able to take a lot of new portrait photos today. 

For now we are relaxing on the terrace waiting for it to get late enough to respectfully eat dinner.